I first heard the term 'leash reactivity' not long after I heard the term 'reactivity'.
A lot of dogs are more reactive on the leash. It often comes down to feeling trapped and not having control.
If faced with a trigger, the flight response is not an option if they are on a leash. So that leaves freeze or fight (or fawn).
George chooses fight. Lunging, barking, growling...whatever it takes to make the trigger go away.
He is reactive generally (at home and in the car) but struggles more on a short leash. He does better on a longline but obviously I need to be selective when and where I can use that.
It's a vicious cycle because I need to keep him on a short leash because of his reactivity. And the short leash makes his reactivity worse.
The highest stress places for George are immediately outside the house (running the neighbour gauntlet) and at daycare drop-off and pick-up. Both of which require a short leash.
We try to avoid all other places where we might come into close contact with people or dogs.
I am trying my best to not let my tension transfer down the leash. Trying to keep the leash loose (but controlled) with a low shoulder. Trying not to tighten the leash when I see a trigger.
My body language and leash handling make a difference as I can inadvertently signal to George that there is a problem.
It's easier said than done though!
I recently ordered the BAT 2.0 book by Grisha Stewart. It explains behavioural adjustment training and I've heard very good feedback.
There is a section in the book (which I need to read - along with the rest of the book!) which demonstrates leash handling techniques.
I found this interesting as this isn't something I'd ever thought about before. Everyone knows how to hold a leash right?
It turns out that there is a lot to be learned when handling the leash with an anxious or reactive dog. It requires a conscious effort and practice.
I'm hoping I can improve my skills to support George better or, at the very least, not contribute to making the situation more stressful.